Fabric type is only part of the story. Two shirts can both say '100% cotton' on the label and still be worlds apart in quality. Here's what to actually check before you buy — online or in-store.

1. Weave Density

Hold the fabric up to light. A tightly woven shirt lets very little light through and will feel more substantial in hand. A loose, see-through weave usually means a thinner, shorter-lived fabric.

2. Stitching

Look closely at the seams, especially around the collar, cuffs and buttonholes. Small, even stitches signal careful construction; loose or uneven stitching is an early warning sign the shirt won't hold up to regular washing.

Our White & Blue Checked Cotton Shirt shows the kind of clean, even stitching worth looking for.

3. Buttons

Cheap plastic buttons crack and lose their shine quickly. Well-made shirts usually use slightly thicker, securely sewn buttons that don't wobble when you tug them gently.

4. Colorfastness

If you can, rub a damp white cloth on a hidden part of the fabric. If color transfers heavily, the dye may bleed in the wash and fade fast over time.

5. How It Feels, Not Just Looks

A quality shirt should feel substantial without being stiff, and should spring back into shape when you scrunch a section in your hand. If it feels papery-thin or stays wrinkled after scrunching, that's a sign of lower fabric quality regardless of what the label says.

Bottom Line

The fabric name on the tag is a starting point, not the full answer. Weave, stitching, buttons and hand-feel together tell you far more about how a shirt will actually perform after a dozen washes.